Dogs are social animals so when it comes to being alone for long periods it can be challenging for them. There are a few things you can do to help them learn that being alone isn't so bad. What to provide: 1) A comfortable place where your puppy can stay alone safely. Use a crate big enough for a sleeping area and a toileting area or make a pen or just a puppy-proofed room e.g. a utility room. You want to make sure there are no wires that can be chews or any other item you would not want to be ruined. They will need an area to move around in, access to water and toys. 2) Distractions to keep them occupied are ideal. Provide food-stuffed toys or kongs filled with frozen liquid food (yogurt, chicken stock, mashed banana, dog-safe peanut butter etc.) to encourage licking behaviour as this is self-soothing. 3) Leave the radio or TV which will keep them company and also cover up any outside noises they may bark at. 4) Departure and homecoming: Initial daytime departures should be when your puppy is tired and likely to sleep (they sleep a lot so this is easier). When you return, wait until your puppy is calm before interacting with them. Do not ignore them if they are distressed. If persistent then try a simple command followed by a treat to calm them down. It is better not to make a big deal about your return. Make sure all 4 paws are on the floor when you reward them. 5) Simple cue is an option to help your dog understand that you are going out. For example a wave and ‘bye’ or an index finger and ‘i’ll be 1 minute’. If you want to find out what your dog is getting up to or how they are coping when alone then consider asking neighbours to keep an ear out if they are around. Another option would be setting up a doggy camera so you can monitor. You might find out that something in particular sets your dog off when you are not there, for example post through the door. If you do find any destruction when you return then just ignore it, it isn’t personal and they’ve only destroyed it because they were so stressed that they reached the point that they had to express it. Never tell them off as this will just increase their stress and make things worse. You can help train your dog to be alone by starting small, even in a separate room and keep out of sight for a short while. Weh you are confident they are quiet return and provide a treat. Build this up so you are out of sight for longer periods and reward if they are calm, haven’t made any mess/destruction and haven’t barked. If they do bark or whine then do not return to them. Until they are quiet. If you reward the wrong moment, they will learn that if I bark or whine, then you will return, which is what they want and therefore will do it again. Remember that every dog is different and for difficult cases it is recommended to speak to a qualified dog behaviourist and speak with your vet.

You want to train your puppy to accept unusual noises and other “scary” things. You want to begin this slowly, you can desensitise them to accept noises. If your puppy is surrounded by a busy noisy environment, distract them with toys and reward good and calm behaviour. For outside noises like fireworks or thunderstorms you can try and get them used to the noises as long as it is well away from the busy firework period. Using a programme to do this is ideal, it is available as a free resource from the Dogs Trust you can also purchase as a CD. Make sure you introduce this gradually. Exposing your dog to sounds of fireworks, rain, gunshots, thunder and much more to quickly could build up a fear. Start super quiet, at the volume they can barely hear. Day after day, increase the volume gradually and stop increasing the volume if they seem to react badly to it. Reward your dog when they respond well. This process can take quite a long time, so it is better to do it long before or after the firework season. If there is a sudden episode of thunder or fireworks help mask the noise by closing curtains and turning the TV/radio on and distract them with treats and toys. We have more tips for fireworks night here .

Create a “puppy bedroom” Choose a warm and comfortable sleeping space for your puppy with a bed and/or a blanket. It can also be beneficial to place something that smells of you like an old t-shirt in their bed to provide additional comfort. The transition throughout this period can be a long process and may take time for your dog to stop crying and become quieter and therefore will need a lot of your patience. If there is still whining when left alone, start to time the duration of the time they are crying, then you can monitor and note how long they take to quiet down. Keeping track of progress is beneficial to see if things are improving over time. Preparing for bedtime: 1) Give them dinner early, ideally 3 hours before bedtime, this will help them not to need the loo overnight. Limit food and water, do not give them any an hour before bedtime. Going to bed with a full stomach and bladder means you'll likely be taking your pup out more than once during the night to let them out. 2) If you are early to bed and late to rise, you'll have to make at least one midnight trip to keep them from going to the bathroom inside, but as your puppy gets older and gets used to the toilet training this will become less frequent. 3) Provide active play and a walk is possible, 2 hours before bedtime - this will help tire them out. Make sure your puppy is getting lots of physical and mental exercise, especially if your puppy is a particularly active breed and as your puppy gets older. 4) Try not to be too excitable to help calm them down. Wait until they are naturally sleepy before leaving them, puppies sleep a lot so this should be easy. What NOT to do: -If your puppy cries, wait to see if they settle down before going straight to see them. If you go to see them every time they cry, they will learn that their crying will achieve this. -Start as you mean to go on, if you want them to sleep in a separate room then avoid letting them sleep in your room at all...they don't know what they have never had. -Never use your puppy’s bed as a punishment, this could create stress at bedtime. If your puppy seems extremely stressed, they may not like their crate, being alone and away from you, the room, or a room separate from you. You could provide a puppy pen or area near your bed/bedroom. This can make your puppy feel more comfortable and less stressed as they are closer to you throughout this adjustment process. However, if your dog is sleeping in the same room as you, the transition to being a quiet pup that doesn’t bark when left alone can be a longer one. You will have to work on this and be patient. If your puppy cries, wait to see if he settles instead of coming to pet him. Otherwise your puppy could learn the wrong lesson that crying will get him cuddles! If you want them to sleep in separate rooms then avoid letting them sleep in your room, otherwise they will ask for it again.

Why does a cat spray? Spraying is perhaps the most misunderstood cat behavior, often confused with urinating. Spraying cats emit a foul smelling spray for territorial and calming reasons. The strong smell or even just performing the act and reduce stress or comfort your cat. The cat will usually choose vertical places to spray, have their backside raised & quiver their tail. Urine spraying is an indication that a kitten is now an adult. Who will spray? Both males and females can spray, even after neutering or spaying. Entire female cats sometimes spray to highlight their territory and to tell males they’re available. Males are available at all times and spray to leave urine marks as a territorial behavior, but this is also a sign of his availability to nearby females. Can be in combination with meowing and yowling, calling to available female cats in the area. Kittens begin spraying urine usually when they hit reproductive maturity. This stage varies, but ranges from around 4 months to over a year. Neutering or spaying a cat before reaching maturity can help prevent spraying, male cats usually mature physically between 4 to 5 months. Most cats begin spraying around 6 to 7 months of age, but if the cat is neutered before it ever sprays, it very likely will never begin spraying at all or develop a habit. It is still possible for cats to spray after they’ve been neutered. Therefore it is best to train your cat before they start spraying and create a positive reassuring environment to comfort your cat so they can cope through all the changes in your life together. What to do if you cat is spraying If your cat is already spraying, they are most probably uncomfortable and there is a stressor causing this. Help by removing whatever they have perceived as a threat or whatever is making them uncomfortable and stressed. Try and work out what may have changed in their environment most recently e.g. a new sofa Cats usually spray in response to anything that is making them stressed or they think of as a threat, can be anything from decorating the house, to a new animal around or a guest. Clean all cat marks With warm water and soap (enzymatic wash) or alcohol Let the area dry, do not use bleach! Using ammonia-based or bleach cleaners will attract your cat to spray again. You should see an improvement within the first week and continue to use for at least one month. Adhere to the litter box guidelines : ● One per cat plus 1 more ● Easy to access ● Locate away from food and water ● Always clean: Scooped daily and cleaned weekly. Remove any stressful changes in their environment - changes in your cat’s environment Any unavoidable new environmental changes should involve slow introductions and keep your cats routine as normal as possible. Feliway Classic should be used to mark the environment as safe and secure when any changes are being made. Health Problems Get your cat checked at the vet for any underlying health problems. Especially if the spraying perseveres despite being neutered and environmental issues addressed. Other things to look at: ● Look for litter box-related issues as your cat may be avoiding their litter box for a reason. Try adding another litter box or changing the location of the litter box or the litter you use. ● If a multicat household, ensure there are enough litter boxes so that each cat has one without conflict or competition for it. ● Blot the urine spray right away with a clean towel to soak up as much urine as possible, reducing the possibility of the pee soaking in. Use a cloth or towel that you can either immediately wash or throw away. If the spray is dry or on carpet, pour a cup of slightly warm water and wipe up with towels before adding cleaning products. Blot the stain and do not rub, as this would cause the stain to set or soak in.

Why does my cat scratch? Cats do need to scratch, it is a natural need and helps them sharpen and flex their claws. However cats can scratch inappropriately or excessively as a subtle way of showing that they are not completely happy. How to know if its stress scratching If scratching is widespread in your house or your cat is particularly destructive, this may be an indicator that this may be due to stress. If this has begun all of a sudden try and work out if something has changed suddenly in their environment e.g. a new sofa.

Cats like to hide when they are stressed so while dealing with the causes, make sure that you provide multiple cat hiding places (Cardboard boxes, baskets, open cupboards etc.). Cat hiding places should always be accessible to your cat and they prefer high places. Always respect your cat’s decision to hide and do not force them to come out. Understand why your cat may be hiding ● Recent changes at home? (new furniture, redecorating, moving home...) ● Visitors, ● A new family member, ● A new pet at home ● Competition or tension with another cat? Cats hiding can be completely normal and maybe nothing to worry about. They could also actually be sleeping; maybe your cat just likes that spot under your bed for some warmth, peace and quiet and finds it a nice safe place for an undisturbed snooze. However, this would mean that your cat doesn’t spend all their time there and when under the bed, they are relaxed and always sleeping there, so look out for their body language and any signs of stress or tension. Cats spend much of their day napping, so they may choose this private, comfy place to curl up to conserve body heat and hide themselves from potential threats. If something has changed or is new this perceived threat is not taken lightly (as they are natural prey animals) and they will hide, for example under your bed for safety until they realise that it is safe and this is not something that should be feared. Meaning your cat will come out after a while. If your cat hides often or there hasn’t been any additions, visitors or changes to their schedule or environment. Then take your cat to the vet for a check up, it could be a sign of pain e.g. dental. Try to comfort your cat at home and create the most comfortable calm environment as possible. Cats can hide because they feel stressed and anxious What not to do: ● Do not scold, shout or swat or force your cat to move or do anything to control/correct them, this will make things worse. Cats will perceive this negative punishment as a threat and act fearfulling with avoidance or aggression. ● Do not forcibly remove your cat from her perceived safe area. They are in this area as it makes them feel safe and cats feel less stress when they are able to choose movement and are able to move freely. Lessening stress will likely decrease the cat’s hiding behaviour. ● As tempting as it can be, do not stroke or soothe your cat during the hiding. You may accidentally reinforce this with the praise and increase your cat’s want to hit. Instead, try to ignore the cat and give them space. What to do: ● Do praise your cat for bravery and for any other behavior you want more of. ● Think of ways you might make it worthwhile for your cat to come out of hiding. Call your cat for meals and treats. If your cat will eat near you, try hand feeding your cat. Lack of appetite is one sign of stress. If the cat won’t take food from your hand, try sitting quietly near your cat and tossing an occasional treat. If your cat takes the treat, toss the treats closer to where you are sitting. Over time, the cat may take the treat from your hand. If all of these suggestions fail to reduce your cat’s hiding behavior then make sure you visit with your cat frequently to give mental stimulation and ensure he or she is getting nutrition, water and access to the litter box. Or, consider giving your cat a private room that is people and pet free. Make that private room a cat sanctuary that has everything your cat needs for comfort and security. Always take your cat to the vet if you are worried